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Slab Foundation Leveling
We dig and drill the holes and pour concrete in about two to three days. Before we pour, the engineer comes back out to inspect the holes and check that we have the right type and number of rebar for each hole. That puts us at 6 days.
NOTE: We need ½ of your driveway to pile dirt on from the day we start until the day we lift the home, and can have the excess dirt removed. Also, we can be a little hard on bushes if they are in the way of a hole or access to a hole, however, we do try to save them. We either cut them back (sometimes drastically) or remove them and put them in the dirt we’re storing on your driveway and hope they can be replanted when we are finished.
The concrete has to cure for five days. That puts us at 11 days. On that day or the next, usually beginning at about 8:00 AM, we lift the home. The owner or his/her representative needs to be present on the day we lift the home, as we will be in and out of the home frequently. When the home is leveled as best as it can be, we call the engineer out to check our work. If he approves the work and the leveling, we back-fill the holes, patch exterior mortar brick cracks, and order the removal of left over dirt.
Foundation Irrigation Systems
Manually or timer operated, surface soaker hoses.
Buried systems, with or without automatic timers.
Systems linked as an additional zone on your sprinkler control system.
Normally we install these systems in conjunction with foundation repairs, however we can install them separately.
Pier & Beam Foundation Leveling
Those with concrete beam along the course of the perimeter
Those without a concrete beam along the course of the perimeter
We use our Dual, eight inch drilled concrete pier around the perimeter for both types listed above. If the home has a perimeter concrete beam, we install the piers below the surface and use high compression concrete blocks and steel shims between the pier and the beam. If the home has a wood perimeter beam and/or a sill plate, we install the pier below the surface, and then, depending on the size of the home, we may either pour concrete cylinders on top of the pier, up to within a few inches of the beam, or use tall, high compression concrete blocks between the pier and the beam. Whichever is used, the last couple of inches are filled with ¼ inch steel shims to allow is the ability to adjust them, up or down, in the future.
The center of a pier and beam configuration is a grid of piers placed at intervals to support the floor joists. Wood floor joists run in one direction under the floor and wood beams run perpendicular to the floor joists. These beams are usually two 2 X 6 inch boards sandwiched together and stood on end for greater rigidity. The interior piers are placed under these beams.
Adjustment of interior floor levels: Floor levels may be adjusted by lifting the interior beam off of its supporting pier and either adding in or removing steel shims.
Occasionally interior supports (piers) have to be added or replaced if they fail. We have seen everything from tree stumps to modern concrete pad and blocks used for interior piers. A-Plus Foundation Repair Company usually installs concrete pad and blocks for interior piers. In some instances, depending on the size of the home or other weight loading issues, we may pour steel reinforced concrete pads and use either poured concrete cylinders or high strength concrete blocks (and shims) between the pad and the beam.
Wood replacement: In any pier and beam foundation, it is sometimes necessary to replace wood situated underneath the floor. Floor joists, beams, or sill plates may be broken or weakened as a result of moisture and/or insect damage. If A-Plus Foundation Repair Company replaces any wood under the home we use only “pressure treated” wood.
Surface Box Drains: Perforated 4 inch drain pipe, encased in a fabric sleeve to keep out dirt is installed along problem areas. Surface boxes are installed at critical points along the route to allow heavy rains to flow into the box(s) and down into the pipe, instead of pooling and soaking in next to your foundation. Any rain gutter down spouts along the drain pipe’s route are also routed, under-ground, into the drain pipe.
French Drains: Similar to Surface box drains, except instead of surface collector boxes, various configurations of gravel and fabric are installed under the surface, to carry off surface water via the buried pipe. As with the Box type drains, down spouts along the route of the buried pipe are routed into the drain pipe.
Combination French & Box drains: Various combinations of French and Box Types for specialized applications.